Random thoughts on the way home

I have been remiss.

We left Anchorage on Thursday (2 July) and were back on the Alaska Highway on Friday. We didn’t dawdle this time, making it back to Dawson Creek in 4 days. We didn’t meet with as many construction delays as on the way up, but I don’t think it can be driven any faster than that.

Wildfire is a constant danger in the north woods, and there were more than 600 fires in Alaska while we were there. The Tok fire started as we entered the state and eventually consumed several miles of forest along the highway.

Wildfire on the road from Tok
Wildfire on the road from Tok

And on the trip back, we drove through more than 100 miles of smoke,some of it quite thick, in the Yukon. The smoke alarm goes off when I boil water, but didn’t utter a peep through all the smoke.

Perhaps my largest disappointment with this trip was the fact that most days the vistas, though gorgeous, were no longer than we get in the Smokies. Although we were 1000 miles north of any serious industrial smog, we just didn’t get the “100 mile views” I had expected to see. I can’t help but think that the fires had a lot to do with that.

The Alaska Highway is notorious for going through windshields, but we almost made it the entire length, both ways, without mishap. But Sunday, on a good stretch of road, a gravel truck apparently hit a bump at 100 kph, spewing stone behind it. We were fortunate to come out with only a single stone chip, which we got patched the next morning. But enough is enough. No more repairs, please.

On Wednesday (8 July) we crossed back into the US, stopping for a visit to Glacier National Park. There were 150 glaciers in the park when it was created in 1915. Now it is down to 25, and they are all expected to be gone in another 15 years or so. But ice or no ice, it is still gorgeous.

Lake St. Mary in Glacier National Park
Lake St. Mary in Glacier National Park

Friday was an overnight in Billings (MT), then on to Devils Tower, with a brief stop at the Little Big Horn battlefield. Today (Sunday), we will go on to Mount Rushmore.

Devils Tower at sunset
Devils Tower at sunset

On the road again!

On Wednesday, we decided we had had enough of Anchorage and rented a car to go back down to the Kenai Peninsula for the day. (In true Alaskan fashion, the only vehicle available was a pickup truck.) We spent the day on a boat, touring the glaciers and fjords of Prince William Sound.

The coastal range around Prince William Sound, like the coastal range near Seattle, traps a lot of moisture, and Whittier gets about 200 inches of rain a year. The mountains around it get around 100 feet of snow a year. Consequently, there are a lot of glaciers in this part of the state. The cruise we took showed us 26 named glaciers in the space of 5 hours. Massively impressive mountains of ice.

26 Glacier Tour. Contenders for wall. Whittier Tunnel -single lane shared by cars and train. Potter Marsh -- arctic tern, green-winged teal.

26 Glacier Tour. Contenders for wall. Whittier Tunnel -single lane shared by cars and train. Potter Marsh -- arctic tern, green-winged teal.
Surprise Glacier towers 300 feet above the water (and about the same below).

 

26 Glacier Tour. Contenders for wall. Whittier Tunnel -single lane shared by cars and train. Potter Marsh -- arctic tern, green-winged teal.
Despite the snow, the glaciers are retreating at a rapid rate. These two glaciers are about a mile apart where they enter the Sound. Just 10 years ago, this was a continuous wall of ice. The vegetation line sloping down to the left in the center shows the recent limit of the glacier.

Thursday morning we got the call that our part was in and the rig was fixed! We didn’t need a second offer—after a quick stop to replenish the groceries that had spoiled while the refrigerator was off, we left the traffic of Anchorage behind and headed back north toward Tok. Along the way, we were introduced to yet another glacier, Matsunuka Glacier, the only valley glacier we’ve seen on this trip.

b Matsunuka Glacier

Today (Friday), we’re headed back to the Alaska Highway and back into Canada.

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Solitary Sandpiper